Serves 4
3/4 ounce dried porcini
14 ounces lamb’s or calf’s kidneys
13/4 ounces smoked bacon
1 tablespoon chopped thyme or rosemary leaves
1 garlic clove
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons brandy
4 tablespoons heavy cream
2 teaspoons good-quality whole grain mustard
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped flatleaf parsley to garnish
Immerse the porcini in just enough hot water to cover them (too much water results in overcooking later) and set aside to soften. Halve the kidneys lengthwise, remove the thin membrane on the outside if necessary and cut out the white fatty core. Cut into 1/2-inch cubes and set aside. Dice the bacon or cut into strips. Chop the thyme and garlic and set aside.
Select a large skillet and heat up the oil and butter. When hot, add the kidneys, cooking one side until just brown, then turning to brown the other side. Season with salt and pepper and remove carefully with a slotted spoon, keeping the butter and oil in the pan. Add the bacon and cook briefly.
Squeeze out the porcini, reserving the soaking liquid, and add to the pan along with the garlic and thyme. Cook, stirring frequently, until the bacon is just lightly browned. Return the kidneys to the pan along with the reserved porcini liquid, discarding any sediment at the bottom of the bowl. Then add the brandy. Cook for a few minutes to reduce the liquid until it makes a thick sauce. Add the cream and mustard, bring to a boil, and when the sauce just coats the kidneys, remove from the heat.
Taste to check the seasoning and serve immediately with a scattering of the parsley, either on thin crispy toast with a small warm brioche, or with boiled rice.
Sophie Braimbridge, “Stylish Mediterranean in Minutes”
